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Panaji

Panaji’s name means ‘the land that never floods,’ and comes from its location on the banks of the Mandovi estuary in northern Goa. The city’s population is 65,000, and it is the third-largest city in Goa after Vasco da Gama and Margao. Like Goa’s other cities, Panjim retains a unique Portuguese flavour, visible in its architecture and cuisine, which sets it apart from other cities and regions in India. There is a river flowing along one side of the city and a Latin quarter on another side. Panjim is becoming renowned as a centre of multicultural diversity and creativity.

Depending on what time of year you choose to visit, you can experience a range of exciting festivals and carnivals that showcase the best of local folk culture. In February there are the Carnival celebrations, in the build-up to the season of Lent on the Portuguese Catholic calendar. These are followed by the Hindu spring festival of Shigmo/Holi in March, which features vibrant street parties, traditional folk dancing and street dancing, and elaborate floats depicting religious and mythological scenes.

Landmarks and visitor attractions

One of its more famous modern assets is the Casino Royale Goa, one of several floating casinos on the river, which has live entertainment provided on the sun deck and the dining floor. The river also hosts various boat cruises, which are a great way to take in the beautiful sites along its banks. Via a short car ferry ride across the river, you can reach the islands, full of open, tranquil fields of marsh grass. For nature lovers, the Salim Ali bird sanctuary is a compulsory stop on your itinerary; this is located on the island of Chorao. The best time for bird watching is between October and March, when many migratory birds stop over at the sanctuary.

Beaches

If you are exploring Goa’s array of beautiful beaches, then you should head to Anjum Beach (also known as Anjana), which has clear and fine sand, stunning sunset views, and a variety of watersports facilities. There are also some delightful fish delicacies to be enjoyed here.

Another great local beach is at Miramar, a popular meeting point for local urbanites. If you visit Miramar, don’t miss the great Goan food served at D’Silva’s. Alternatively, try Indian snacks like Chaat (Bhel Puri) at one of the many food stalls near the beach, or head for a coffee at Cafe Coffee Day.

Outside Panaji and beyond Miramar is Dona Paula beach (adjacent to the town of the same name) which has featured in many Bollywood films.

Culture and historic sites

Art lovers should visit the Gallery Gitanjali, which showcases a good selection of local contemporary art; lovers of books and history will love the Central Library, the oldest public library in India, founded in 1832. You can also take in some open-air theatre at the Kala Academy in Campal. For a taste of Panjim’s Portuguese architectural heritage, a visit to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Mount, a World Heritage site, is a must, along with the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. The Panjim Heritage Walk is a great way of exploring the city’s rich history. Its route takes in the Catholic-dominated precinct of Fontainhas, the Chapel of Saint Sebastian and the Panjim Pousada, a restored, 100-year-old Hindu hotel, among other sites.

For a fuller taste of Goa’s past as a Portuguese colony, take a trip out of Panjim to Old Goa, 9km to the east. Here you can see such historic sites as the Basilica of Bom Jesus; the Church and Convent of St. Francis of Assisi; and the Church of St. Augustine.

Shopping

There are lots of great things to buy in Panjim, including Goan Cashew Liquor and port wines, spicy Goan sausages (‘Choricao’), made of pickled dried pork, and local handicrafts made from shells and terracotta. The Broadway Book Centre is a superb bookshop with 5000 square feet of floor space, and Velha Goa Galeria and De Goa Ceramics are the place to go for local, hand-painted ceramics.

Food and drink

If you are looking for great places to eat and drink in Panjim, then a great place to start is the Ritz Classic, serving affordable Indian food in a child-friendly environment. The Hotel Venite Restaurant is a good choice for romantic meals, as is the superb Waterfront Terrace restaurant at the Marriott Hotel. If you are looking to sample some traditional Portuguese cuisine, head to Viva Panjim; for Asian seafood in a beautiful riverside setting, Quarterdeck is the place to go. Two more superb restaurants are the Upper House, serving Indian food, and the PanAsian Bowl, serving a delicious array of Thai, Chinese and Malaysian food.

Transport

By rail and bus

The nearest railway stations to Panjim are Karmali, 10km to the east, and Madgaon Junction, 35km to the south. From both stations you can pick up taxis, buses and rickshaws into the city, but if you only have a backpack, motorcycle taxis are a cheap and fun way to make the trip. If you are taking the bus from Karmali station, the bus stop is immediately across the road (although it does not have a sign).

By car

National Highway 17 takes a scenic route through Panaji, but it includes narrow and dangerous stretches which should not be used unless you are an experienced driver on India’s roads. A detour from the NH-17, via the Expressway, is a safer route, though not much faster in terms of journey time.

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